After battling conditions in the lower altitude areas of Colorado, I knew it was time to begin climbing in the alpine. Many of the alpine zones in Colorado still have way too much snow, however, Guanella pass seemed like it could be good. A crew of us ventured up there late last week in search of the unrepeated Ice Knife V15 by Dave Graham.
On our first day up there we were unsuccessful in finding the boulder. We headed back down to Boulder feeling quite defeated. We returned the next day and with some new knowledge were able to find the bloc! Daniel, Matty, and myself began working the boulder. We quickly found some good sequences and by the end of the first day we were giving it some send goes! By the end of the day, we were all really tired but psyched to return back soon!
Daniel, Beau Kahler, and myself returned yesterday after taking a much needed rest day! We found ourselves up at the boulder with some of the best alpine conditions any of us had ever seen! We went to work trying the moves again while beau set up some angles to shoot us from. Soon after we began climbing, a freak whiteout snow storm rolled through and we began to wonder if our day would be over. We huddled under the boulder for about 30 minutes while the snow continued. The skies eventually started to become light again and we knew it would be climbable again soon!
Once the snow stopped and the sun came out again, we started giving the line send goes. Daniel and I went back and forth on attempts for a little while, each try getting slightly closer than the last! The wind started blowing and the conditions got even better. Daniel pulled on and climbed the boulder flawlessly. It was amazing to watch and made me super psyched to try to get this thing done. After a couple of more near attempts, I pulled on and climbed the boulder!!! It is always so awesome to climb something so technical and demanding. Every move on the boulder is of similar difficulty and the body positions you get yourself into are totally crazy! Putting the whole thing together bottom to top was really a cool feat and one i am really happy about!
After climbing the boulder, we decided that a sit start would be an amazing addition. We began working it and it is hard!!! The link of the two boulders is going to be tough!!!! I hope to continue trying it more in the next few weeks!
After this, we were all pretty tired but a line to the right of ice knife got us psyched. we built up a nice landing and cleaned the holds. Beau satched it up first and called it Rainbow in the Dark. Daniel and I climbed it soon after and we think it to be about the grade of v10.
What a sick day! Hoping for more amazing alpine days like this in the near future before heading to Australia!
Photo: Beau Kahler