Time seems to be flying by here in Europe. I am psyched to have made it to Switzerland after a long drive from Fontainebleau. I arrived a few days ago after a nice last week and a half of climbing in Font.
As i mentioned in a previous blog post, I was really looking forward to getting back on both Trip Hop and La Force du Destin. After a couple of days of poor weather, I made it back to Trip Hop in hopes of sending. When I got there, one of the holds in the crack was wet so I was unsure if it would be climbable that day. I dried it with my chalk ball but in a matter of minutes it was wet again. I devised a way of grabbing the hold so that my finger tips would not get when while doing the traverse section before the crux.
After a couple of tries, I felt like I was super close to sending. I took a long rest and determined that this was my last try as the sun was beginning to shine through the trees and the holds were getting a bit warm. I made it through the traverse section quite quickly and was psyched to not feel that tired. I kept going and got to the crux stab move with the right hand over a bulge to a hard to find slopey slot hold. I stuck it well but was super tired. I fought with all of my might to the easier moves up high on the slab and barely managed to top the thing out! It was really cool to finish such a rad line. The whole thing flowed really well and it was great to piece it all together.
A few days later, I managed to send total eclipse which had been a climb I had wanted to do in Font since I was a teenager and had seen video of Dave in Dosage 2! It really was a special moment to top that one out and one i won’t forget anytime soon.
Next on the list was la force du destin. Plagued by rain and hot weather it was hard to get in many attempts on this climb. After two prior days ending in split tips, i knew that it would require a good cold day as well as fast execution to get it done. La Force du Destin is an amazing climb that begins high on a wave like wall and climbs through hard crimp moves to a huge dead point to the lip off of a very small crimper side pull. The lip is an okay sloper followed by quite a scary mantle at about 17 feet or so.
After a day of no rain, I knew the climb would be dry! It was cold and cloudy, the perfect conditions for such a condition dependent climb. On my first go i made it only a few moves in before grabbing a hold poorly and dropping off. On my second go, I executed the bottom perfectly and made the huge move to the lip, quite desperately! I did the mantle, very carefully, and was again psyched to be standing atop such an amazing boulder!
After that, the trip kinda went to crap as the weather just never really cooperated. I never got to try my projects anymore because they were always wet so I decided to leave Font early and head back to Switzerland!
My main goal for Switzerland is to climb the Story of Two Worlds in Cresciano. This climb is the sit start to the dagger and is quite the battle of a climb. It requires a lot of endurance as well as tons of core and power. The other day, I put a good session into the climb, refining my beta on the dagger and relearning the start moves into the dagger. I feel good on the climb and know that with a little more endurance and muscle memory, the climb could be possible!!!
Today I tried the story some more and have begun to do long links. The more i try it, the more endurance i will build. Just gotta chip away at the ol’ bloc.
Here is a short video that we shot in Magic Wood this fall of Never Ending story. The footage is crap as people just get in the way the whole time, so it will not be used for anything important. Enjoy! Stay tuned for a new video project coming soon… all about my travels throughout this year. We are compiling footage of some great climbs and I think this movie will hopefully turn out really good in the end!