Well it has been about a week or so since the last update and a lot has been happening here in Font! About a week ago I decided to give my initial attempts on La Force du Destin, an unrepeated 8B+ in Franchard Ermitage. The climb is a bit of a trek to get to but it is well worth it for the amazing clean wall of crimps. The boulder begins with a few technical moves followed by a hard match and a huge move to the lip of the boulder!
here is a photo of Kevin Lopata on the FA. As you can see the move is huge and he is over 2m tall!!! For me the move is full extension. I love this climb and am psyched to get back on it soon. I unfortunately split my tip on it and now have had to deal with trying more slopey boulders until it fully heals.
Since i have decided to do more slopey boulders i have now put a few days of effort into trip hop, 8C, in boissy aux cailles. This climb has some really amazing moves and is just over 20 moves long. It is the extension to Hip Hop assis 8b/+. The climb for me is about a 7c+/8a traverse into hip hop assis. the climb is given 8c trav and for me it feels like hard 8c trav/easy 8c boulder.
the climb begins way out left and climbs the slopey rail into hip hop assis (pictured above)
I have also been doing a lot of exploration around the forest and stumbled across some really amazing boulders that have yet to be climbed. Brush in hand, i have cleaned a few and am psyched to get back to them! i put one day into this amazing arete project near mondeville that i think will weigh in around 8b/+ or so when completed!
There is so much to do here in font and besides la force and trip hop, i think my main motivation is going to be for projects in the upcoming weeks. after an ice storm last night and a bit of rain tomorrow the weather looks great for the week to come! stay tuned for more!
Here is a guest post i was asked to do for the Outside Magazine Blog on my top 5 favorite climbing areas! http://outside-blog.away.com/blog/2011/02/paul-robinsons-top-5-bouldering-spots.html