I woke up yesterday morning to perfect temps and a partly cloudy sky here in my home base of Claro. I quickly packed everything up and made the 15 minute drive to the Cresciano parking area. I hiked up the hill to the Dreamtime Bloc to see it vacant and perfectly set in the shade! I could not wait to try it again, as the evening before I had managed to nearly send the boulder on multiple accounts.
at first, I stuck with my original sequence that I had worked out the night before, but soon found a slight change that would make all the difference. After a long rest, I managed to make it through the crux sequence from the bottom and in a moments time found myself atop Dreamtime!
The feeling of sending was amazing. Everything came together perfectly on the send go. I have dreamed about climbing this amazing boulder ever since it was originally put up by Fred Nicole in 2002. After the devastating break in 2009, I was unsure what to expect of the climb when I returned to Suisse. Though obviously harder, the boulder still climbs really well and still stands as one of the best in the world. The main difference now is that instead of jumping to the lip from a perfect sidepull, you now have to battle 2 small crimps before making a near static pull to the lip.
I am working on a video of the ascent that will appear in a BD short coming out soon along with some other Swiss classics!